Hair Extensions 101: The Types, Benefits, and Cost Explained

Hair extensions offer celebrities (and even us normies) the versatility to go from shoulder-length hair in the morning to waist-length waves at night. But as exciting as extensions are, the more you look into them, the more intimidating they can be. There are countless installation methods, and the list of terms used to describe the types of hair is never-ending (and not always self-explanatory).

So we decided to go to the experts—hairstylists and extension experts Shawntá Johns and Mel Moss—to get the 411 on adding inches to your mane. Read on for a comprehensive guide to all things hair extensions.

Types of Hair Used in Extensions

Before we outline how extensions can be installed into the hair, it's important to understand the types of hair that can be used to create extensions. "There are different grades of hair that can be used for hair extensions application," explains Johns, ranging from synthetics to human, cuticle-intact unprocessed hair. Moss agrees and says generally, the easiest way to differentiate between hair extensions is synthetic and human hair. There are pros and cons when it comes to synthetic versus human hair, but Moss says both types are great depending on the client's hair and the style being created.

Moss also emphasizes the importance of sourcing hair ethically. "Just as quality is important, it's equally (if not more) important to know how it is sourced," she says. "There is definitely a dark side to the hair extension industry, and that's hair that is not ethically sourced. It's important to know if your hair came from a willing donor or other sources, such as cadavers or even unsuspecting individuals who had their ponytail cut off and stolen."

Many industry-specific terms are used to "grade" the hair that goes into extensions; luckily, our experts broke down the basics for us.

Synthetic Hair

Synthetic hair is a great option for those first trying extensions, especially clip-ins for occasional use. Synthetic hair is essentially plastic and cannot be heat styled, but it is the most affordable option, according to Moss. "Synthetic hair is mostly what lower-end wigs and clip-ins are made of," she says. Your mind might immediately jump to images of a bad Halloween wig, but it's important to note that synthetic extensions, wigs, and clip-ins have come a long way and can vary in quality depending on the price.

One thing to watch for with both synthetic and natural hair extensions is the use of silicones. Some companies coat the hair in silicones, making it look shiny and soft. But, as this wears off, the hair is more likely to tangle, and the strands will dull.

Human Hair

Human hair varies greatly in quality and sources, so it's important to know the terminology used to grade it if you're purchasing on your own. Moss says the most common phrase you'll hear referring to quality human hair is Remy (sometimes spelled Remi) or Cuticle Intact. "This means that the hair is either virgin (non-chemically treated) or at least is as healthy as possible, with the cuticle lying flat all in the same direction," she says.

Human hair can come from many parts of the world, with the highest-producing countries being China and India. Moss says that these two hair types are very different but are both great depending on the client's hair it is being matched to.

If you're sourcing on your own, here are some terms you may want to know:

• Natural Hair: Typically refers to human hair, but likely not to the same quality as Remy hair. This hair may be processed or dyed.
• Remy Hair: Often considered the gold standard in extensions, Remy hair is human hair that is healthy and virgin (never before processed). Each strand is carefully selected to ensure the cuticle remains intact and all cuticles align. Because all the hairs run in the same direction, Remy hair maintains a soft, silky texture. This term can sometimes be overused or used incorrectly, so do your research before paying top-dollar for Remy hair that may come from dubious sources.
• Single-Drawn: This means the difference in the length of the strands should be no greater than 2 inches to ensure more uniform extensions.
• Double-Drawn: A step up from single-drawn, these strands should be essentially uniform throughout, so that there is little to no thinning at the bottom.

"The market is full of hair vendors, all claiming to be the best with high-quality hair," Johns cautions. "If you're purchasing hair yourself (without a stylist recommendation), see if the hair vendor sells samples. Also, research reviews to see if the quality is consistent."

Types of Hair Extensions

The different types of extension methods are almost endless, says Moss, which can make finding the right kind for you feel very overwhelming. Johns agrees, adding that the market is so vast and ever-changing that it's hard to keep up with all the new methods.

Further complicating things, Moss explains that these are very broad terms/methods, all of which have subcategories and off-shoots. Additionally, many extension methods have different names but are installed in the same exact way. "For example, beaded row extensions are called beaded wefts, brainless sew-ins, LA weave, and double wefts, to name a few," explains Johns.

Both experts say you should consult a pro to determine the best type of extensions for your hair. As Moss tells us, any method can be safe or damaging, depending on the professional who installs it and how it is taken care of by the client outside the salon.

Below are the most popular types of extensions.